Art of producing sewed garments



Aug. 25, 1936. M. POPPER ART OF PRODUCING SEWED GARMENTS Original Filed Dec. 28, 1954 3 Sheets-Sheet l i MAX POPPER IN V EN TOR.

A TTORNEY Aug. 25, 1936. M. POPPER ART OF PRODUCING SEWED GARMEN'I'S Original Filed Dec. 28, 1934 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 MA X POP/ ER INVENTOR. BY W M A TTORNEYv Aug. 25, 1936. M. POPPER ART OF PRODUCING SEWED GARMENTS 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Original Filed Dec. 28, 1934 MA X PUPPE'R INVEN TOR.

ATTORNEY Patentec'l- Aug 25, 1936 UNITED .STATES ART OF PRODUCIN G -SEWED GARMENTS Max Popper, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to Topstitch Machine Corp.

, New York, N. Y.', a cor- Doration of New York Original application December 28, 1934, Serial No. 7 593449. Divided and this application ctober l, 1935, Serial No. 43,938

2 Claims.

This invention is directed broadly to a method of prodding a pinked and topstitched seam for sewed arelcles, wherein the edge portions of two sections of fabric are upturned and simultaneous- 1y pinked and then downfolded with the pinked edges facing in one direction and sewed together with a zig-zag topstitch to form an edge-folded and pinked elastic seam substantially flat on its normally exposed surface.

An object of this invention is to provide an edge-folded, zig-zag topstitched elastic seam substantially flat on the normally exposed surfaces of the garment by a single passage through an edge-folding and overedge stitching zig-zag sew- .5 ing machine.

Another object of this invention is to provide an edge-trimmed and topstitched seam in successive steps of upturning, trimming and downfold- 7 ing the edges of two or more sections of fabric with the trimmed edges facing in one direction and then stitching together the superposed edges of the sections of fabric by a single passage through a combined edge trimming and zig-zag sewing machine and form a uniformly symmetri- 5 cal and superior non-rippable elastic seam. This application is a division of my prior copending application Serial No. 759,449, filed Dec. 28, 1934.

With the above and other objects in view, the

. invention will be hereinafter more particularly {0 described and the successive steps required to carry out my method will be more fully disclosed.

The drawings show by way of illustration an embodiment of the seam and the steps of the method of making it substantially flat on the normally exposed surface.

Figure 1 is a perspective view showing the manner of placing, upturning, pinking, downfolding and uniting by zigzag topstitching two fabric sections in successive steps and the step of blow- ;0 ing away the pinked clippings.

Figure 2 is a sectional view taken as on line 22 in Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a sectional view taken as on line 3-3 in Figure 1.

Figure 4 is a sectional 44 in Figure 1.

Figure 5 is a sectional view of a modified pinked and zig-zag topstitched elastic seam, wherein all the stitch lines pass through three layers of fabric and wherein the stitched portion of the folded edge is flattened by the transverse stitches and lies substantially flat on the normally exposed surface of the garment.

Figure 6 is a plan view of a folder that may be used for producing the seam shown in Figure 1.

Figure 7 is a side view of the folder shown in view taken as on line Figure 6 set in the base -plate of the sewing machine.

Figure 8 is a sectional view of the folder shown in Figures 6 and 7, the section being taken as on line 8-8 in Figure 6.

Figure 9 is a fragmentary sectional view or the folder shown in Figures 6 to 8, inclusive, the section being takenas on line 9-9 in Figure 7.

Figure 10 is a fragmentary portion of a combined seaming and pinking machine which I presently consider the preferred embodiment of mechanism for carrying out my method. The sewing machine is of the zig-zag type and is well known in the art as a Singer 107W. A front elevation of my improved pinking mechanism is shown applied thereto. This figure also shows a sectional view of a clutch which is part of the means for intermittently rotating the pinking wheel in synchronism with the feeding mechanism of the sewing machine. This view also shows an air line.

Figure 11 is a plan view of the pinking unit and shows the arm for intermittently actuating the pinking wheel.

Referring more in detail to the drawings, the method is carried out as follows: Two fabric sections l0 and II are positioned fiat and in juxtaposed relation with the normally exposed surfaces lying on the base-plate l2 of a combined pinking and zig-zag sewing machine. The sections Ill and II, have their edges l3 and I4 upturned to fit into guideways l5 and I6 of a folder l1. The upturned edges l3 and M are presented to a pinking mechanism I8. The pinking mechanism l8 preferably comprises a rotary cutter l9 having a zig-zag cutting surface and is resiliently pressed in any suitable manner against the outer surface of a rotatably mounted ball bearingor disk 20.

The pinking mechanism I8 grips the upturned edge portions l3 and M of the fabric sections l0 and II. The upturned edge portions are simultaneously pinked during the movement through the pinking mechanism and are then folded down with the pinked edges in superposed relation and facing in one direction by a hemming section'22 of the folder I1 and united by topstitching 23. The stitching is preferably of the zig-zag type, the fabric being pierced successively in two different and slightly spaced longitudinal lines, the threads of the stitches extending from one line to the other at uniform angles which permits the seam to yield when the fabric sections are stretched, without any danger of tearing the thread. As shown in Figure 1 and Figure 4, it will be noted that some of the stitches it pass through both sections of fabric [8 and II and other of the stitches 25 pass through but one of the sections I0.

The seam as illustrated in Figure 4, shows the edge portion M of the fabric section II folded flat and with the edge portion I3 of the fabric section I0 lying in superposed relation on the said fold. This fold forms a reinforcement. The stitching 24 goesthrough a plurality of layers of fabric and reinforces the seam because any tendency to pull the seam apart causes the strain to act in the direction of the folded edge instead -ofagainst the selvage edges. The edge-folded overedge zig-zag stitched seam shown in Figure 4 is stronger than an ordinary pinked seam wherein the sections of fabric are stitched while lying face to face.

It is obvious that'the seam shown in Figure 4 may be made without any pinking or edge-trimv ming and that the seam will then'be edge-folded, overedge zig-zag topstitched, elastic and substantially flat on the normally exposed surface. This is accomplished by removing or placing the trimming mechanism out of operating position.

When two layers of fabric are pinked and stitched with the fabric sections lying flat and face to face, the stitches are visible only on the left sides of the fabric sections, that is on the normally concealed surfaces of the garment. However, when two layers of fabric are pinked and stitched with one folded layer and one superposed layer. as shownin Figure 4, the stitches are visible on the left or normally concealed side as well as on the right or normally exposed side of the fabric sections and such a stitch is termed by the art a topstitch.

.When the edge-folded overedge zig-zag topstitched seam shown in Figure 4 is made by two sewingoperations, i. e., first a combined seaming and pinking operation and then a separate topstitch operation, it is practically impossible to produce uniformly parallel lines of stitching and uniformly parallel lines of pinking and stitching. My method of operating in successive steps with the edge folding, edge trimming, and zig-zag topstitching performed concomitantly, makes it possible not only to produce the seem in one overedge zig-zag topstitched edge-folded seam shown in Figure 4. v The seam shown in Figure 5 has a substantial portion of the folded surface' flattened by transverse stitches and is also elastic, non-rippable and substantially flat on the normally exposed surface.

As best shown in Figures 6 to 9 inclusive, an embodiment of means for upturning and downfolding the fabric sections ill and H may comprise the folder H which is provided with a central rib 26 secured to the guideway member 21 intermediate the guideways l5 and I6. A guide rib 28 fixed to the base-plate 29 of the folder |1 terminates in a line with the point of exit 30 of the hemming section 22 and as close to the needle 2| as possible. The ribs: 26 and 28 are in alinement. The rib 28 extends substantially down to the base-plate l2 of the sewing machine. The folder i1 also comprises two plates 3| and 32 fastened to the guideway member 21 and positioned in a horizontal plane parallel with and in spaced relation from the base-plate I2. The plates 3| and 32 are spaced away from the rib 28 forming longitudinal openings 33 to permit the fabric sections In and II (Figure 1) to enter between said plates and the base-plate l2 and to turn upwards, the turned edges l3 and II on emerging from the guideways l5 and i6 being then constrained to follow the rib 28 on respective sides thereof till the point oi 'exit 30 from the 'hemming section 22 of the folder l1, when the pinked edges are curved at the tongue 34 and then flattened in superposed relation in the horizontal slot-like passage 35 adjacent the needle 2|.

Figure 7 shows the guide rib 26 pivotally mounted on a pivot 36 in the guideway member 21 which is integral with the folder base-plate 29. The

, guideway member 21 has a slot 31 serving to slidably support the integrally connected rib 26, and the horizontal plates 3| and 32 in pivotal relation with the folder base-plate 29. These pivotally mounted fabric folding members may thus jointly swing up and down about the pivot 36. A spring 38 mounted in the central guidewaymember 21 reacts against the front end of the rib 26 and normally raises the said end and causes the end facing the needle 2| to press down. The horizontal plates- 3| and 32 are designed to extend to and rest on the feed-dog of the combined seaming and pinking machine shown in Figure 10. During the up and down motion of the feeddog, the plates 3| and 32 wfll move up and down concomitantly with the feed-dog. The joint up and down motion of the plates 3| and 32 and the four-motion feed-dog mechanism acting against any fabric passing between them to the needle constitutes work feeding means.

It is to be noted that the central guide rib 26 of the folder I1 is positioned intermediate the trimming members l9 and 20 so as to direct the upfolded edges of the fabric sections in a predetermined path intermediate said members. As shown in Figure 9, the central guide member 21 has curved sides 4| so as to facilitate the upfold- 10 and I i are positioned onjthe base-plate l2 of the sewing machine with the normally exposed surfaces, of the'fabric'sections in direct contact with said base-plate.

It is also to be noted that when the seam herein described is incorporated in shadowproof or panel garments, that there will be a plurality of superposed sections of fabric on each side of the seam.

I may position the pinking mechanism l8 substantially in line with the needle so as to perform the pinking and stitching operations simultaneously and in adjacent relation.

In order to remove the pinked clippings from the line of stitching and away from the pinking mechanism, I provide an air compressor or blower (not shown) and terminating in an air line 40 preferably positioned closeto the exit end of the are first turned up and pinked, the pinked edges are then downfolded in superposed relation on one of the sections of fabric and sewed together to form a pinked and zig-zag top-stitched seam. This makes an ornamented and reinforced elastic seam which can be very readily made by the 1 additional strength because very delicate fabrics are employed for such garments.

My pinking mechanism l8 comprises a bracket 44 preferably fastened to the lower portion of i the head 45 of the sewing machine 42. The bracket 44 has an arm 46 carrying a pin 41 at the lower end of which has been mounted the roller or ball bearing 20. An arm 48 has been mounted on a pivot 43 and has a vertical shaft 49 at the lower end of which has been mounted the rotary cutter l9. The members l9 and 20 are preferably of the same diameter and are positioned so that the point of intersection of their circumferences is in line with the center of the loop taker shaft 50, of the zig-zag sewing machine with which my pinking attachment is presently shown combined, as best shown in Figure 10.

The horizontally swinging arm 48 may be swung to the left so that the rotary cutter l9 contacts in operative relation with the rotary member 20. The rotary cutter is adapted to be swung horizontally to the right away from the needle so as to permit the threading of the needle. For the purpose of swinging the arm 48 I have provided a toggle joint 5| having one of its links 52 pivoted to the arm 48 and the other toggle link 53 pivotally connected to the pressure arm 54 mounted on a pin 55 in the bracket 44. A lever 56 has been secured to a rotatable pin 51. At the lower end of the pin 51 has been secured a crank arm 58 which is pivotally secured to a toggle operating link 59. The link 59 is pivotally connected to the links 52 and 53. It is thus possible to swing the lever 56 and the crank arm 58 and the toggle operating link 59 so as to align the two toggle links .52 and 53 and cause a pressure between the rotary cutter l9 and the ball bearing 20.

It is to be noted that the horizontally swinging arm 48 permits swinging of one of the pinking members away from the needle 2| and out of tensioned operative engagement and that the roller 20 may be the swinging member.

An open coil compression spring 60 faces the free. end of the pressure arm 54 and serves to press against said arm. This resilient pressure is transmitted by the toggle joint 5| to the rotary cutter l9 and forces the cutter against the ball bearing 20 into tensioned cutting relation.

An annular casing 6| has been secured at the upper end of the shaft 49. The casing 6| has a -chamber 62 serving to house a detent carrier 63, detent rollers 84 and springs 65 which jointly form a friction clutch 88. The rollers press against cam surfaces in the detent carrier 63. An oscillatable arm 68 has been fastened to the detent carrier 63 and which when turned clockwisecauses rotation of the rotary cutter l9.

As shown in Figures 10 and 11, a vibrating con nection 59 has been secured to the oscillatable arm 88 by a ball joint 10. The other end of the connection 69 has an eccentric strap 'II (Figure 10) which is designed to engage an eccentric 12 mounted on the needle-vibrator shaft I3. The.

needle-vibrator shaft 13 is geared to operate once for every two stitches and the connection 69 causes the oscillatable arm 68 to intermittently actuate the clutch 66 (Figure 11) and the rotary trimmer I9 in timed relation once for every two stitches of the sewing machine.

As shown in Figure 10, there has been provided a friction clutch 15 having clutching members similar to that of the actuating clutch 66 but interposed between the actuating clutch and the rotary cutter. The clutch 15 serves to grip the shaft 49 the moment it is released by the clutch 66 and prevents retrograde movement of the cutter I9.

As shown in Figure 10, the pinking mechanism I8 is secured to the head 45 of a Singer 107W zig-zag sewing machine in such a manner as to cause the rotary members l9 and 20 to be respectively positioned on each side of the needle 2|. The pinking mechanism I8 is thus transverse to the line of stitchingof the sewing machine. As shown in Figures 1 and 10, the pinking members l9 and 20 are positioned in advance of the needle 2| and entirely above the work supporting base 12. The rotary pinking members are mounted to rotate in a horizontal plane in spaced relation above the base and with their shafts in a plane mounted in angular relation with the sewing machine base.

It is to be noted that the method disclosed herein difiers from the disclosure in my patent application Serial No. 747,824, filed October 11, 1934, in that an additional step is herewith disclosed, that of blowing the pinked clippings away from the line of stitching.

I claim:

l. The method of forming a flat, ornamented and non-ravelling elastic seam for sewed articles, which comprises turning up the edges of two flat sections of fabric into adjoining relation, in pinking both upturned edges simultaneously, in blowing the pinked clippings away from the line of stitching, in downfolding the pinked edge of one of said sections, in flattening the pinked edge of the other section over said folded edge and causing said pinked edges to lay flat in superposed relation and then stitching said edges together by a single line of zig-zag stitching passing through both sections of said fabric.

2. The method of forming a trimmed and non ravelling seam substantially flat on its normally exposed surface, which comprises turning up the edges of two flat sections of fabric into adjoining relation, in trimming both upturned edges, in blowing the trimmed clippings away from the line of stitching, in downfolding the trimmed edge MAX POPPEB. 

